With trends setting the high pace of consumerism, it takes extra attention to be sure you are actually "getting what you paid for". Avoiding being sold products that are more expensive, but provide no further value, or products with labels that mean nothing, grows even more challenging as the organic movement is popularized, and unscrupulous businesses use this latest trend to maximize profits. With so many labels like, Organically Grown, All Natural and Free Range, exploring The Truth About…Organics, practicing critical thinking, and staying informed will save you from wasting precious time, energy, and money.
What The Truth About... Does
The Truth About… Organics explores practicing critical thinking to separate fact from fiction to make important choices, informed choices. We do this by offering expert perspectives from a wide range of backgrounds including authors, restaurateurs, eco-advisors, salon owners, organic farmers and global produce wholesalers, filmmakers, TV show hosts, skeptics, pesticide scientists, researchers, natural beauty products manufacturers, and even a "Green Guru". These experts offer their considerations and recommendations on how to be efficient and effective in making a difference in your quality of life, safety, and health.
Through The Truth About…Truth Tools and expert interviews, they facilitate a review of existing beliefs and questioning of reflex reactions, interpretations and conclusions about organics.
Benefits
Through the exploration of The Truth About… Organics, there are a variety of possible benefits available.
Find satisfaction in cultivating resources and making informed choices you can feel good about.
Identify meaningful certifications as well as be vigilant and watchful with misleading or fraudulent labeling.
Discover ways to save money when buying organic food as well as how organic can actually be less expensive than non organic.
Clarity on the costs and benefits of options and choices.
Resistance to stress and financial drain of illness and disease.
Questions Explored
Is Organics all or nothing? Do I have to go all out and change my whole life so drastically?
What are the most significant considerations around organic foods? What do I need to know?
What does organic mean? What does it mean to me?
Are there ways that buying organic products can actually save money?
How can I better read the variety of food labels being used and filter out empty or false claims?
How might I participate in collective change or influence legislation from the local to federal levels?
Is there an expert recommended list of most important foods to be eaten organically?
Where does food come from and what resources does it takes to produce, deliver, and discard.
Assumptions Examined
"Organic is pesticide free".
"Cheaper/faster is better."
"I have no options."
"If they sell it, it must be safe."
"Organics are for hippies."
"I can't afford to buy organic"
Bonsai Gardening Secrets. Discover Over 95 Pages Of Insider Secrets To Creating Stunning Bonsai Trees. Click Here!
Worlds Best Compost. Make The Worlds Ultimate Natural Fertilizer, Colloidal Humus, Without Bins, Turning Or Odor. Click Here!
The Complete Grape Growing System. A Complete System With E-book And Audio Book To Help You Grow Grapes The Correct Way. Click Here!
How To Start Beekeeping. Want To Start Beekeeping? This New EBook Reveals It All. Start Keeping Bees This Season! Click Here!
Orchid Care Expert - A Practical Guide. The Most Practical Guide To Orchid Care To Be Found On The Internet. Click Here!
Organic Food Gardening Beginners Manual. 87 Page Step-by-step Gardening Manual For Beginners To Learn How To Grow Their Own Healthy, Organic Food - Saving Money And Eating Chemical Free! Great Bonuses With This E-manual. Revised Edition Just Released.
Click Here!
Forceful Orchid Fertilizers: Homemade Recipes. Know How To Feed Your Orchids To Quickly Get Astonishing Results. Click Here!
The Hypertufa How-To Manual. 100 Page EBook On How To Make Garden Art Objects From Hypertufa. Easy To Follow Instructions & Expert Advice. Click Here!
Homemade Hydroponics. Hydroponics Secrets Shows You How To Grow The Plants, Fruits And Vegetables -even In Limited Space--without Using Soil. Pays 75% Commission With Excellent Conversion Rates. Click Here!
Bonsai Gardening Secrets. Discover Over 95 Pages Of Insider Secrets To Creating Stunning Bonsai Trees. Click Here!
Forceful Insecticides Home Made Formula. Discover Secret Informations That Big Multinationals Dont Want You To Know! Click Here!
Showing posts with label agricultural insecticides. Show all posts
Showing posts with label agricultural insecticides. Show all posts
Saturday, 20 December 2008
Monday, 15 December 2008
Straw Bale Gardening
Hay or Straw Bale Gardening is a method of gardening in which plants are grown in straw bales, usually wheat or oat straw, rather than in soil. Because it is a mostly soil-less method, it is sometimes considered a form of hydroponic gardening. It is suitable for many types of annuals, and is especially used for vegetable gardening.
Advantages of Straw Bale Gardening
There are many reasons why gardeners turn to hay bale gardens. Probably the most common is poor or difficult soil. A straw bale requires no tilling or mixing of soils to allow for drainage. In this part of South Carolina the soil is mostly very dense red clay that is exceptionally difficult to work and can cause serious drainage issues. Simply growing vegetables in hay bales eliminates these problems. Because the plants are a couple of feet off of the ground, it also makes gardening much easier for the disabled, older gardeners, or just for those who want to avoid back pain. Hay bales are far, far less prone to weeds, and Bale Gardening devotees report fewer pest problems. This means that straw bale gardening makes organic or low-chemical gardening all the easier. A bale garden can be a great solution for that enemy of the gardener, the parking strip (or "hell strip," as many call it). It is also becoming popular in some cityscapes for rooftop and lot gardening.
How to Garden in Straw Bales:
1. Choose your Bales
Most straw bale gardeners recommend wheat straw, but I've heard of success with oat straw as well as mixed grass or alfalfa bales. Do not use pine straw. When choosing your bales you'll want them bound with synthetic twine, which won't rot and allow your planting bed to collapse (if you cannot find synthetic twine, you'll need to use some sort of stakes as support). Try to find older bales that have already begun rotting when you can, though not those that are so far gone as to have lost some of their structure.
Before you start the curing process, place your bales. They will be constantly wet once you start curing, and will be very heavy and difficult to move. Most bale gardeners prefer to have the bales oriented with the straw vertical for better root penetration, but this is a matter of preference
2. Cure your Bales
The curing process will take about ten days, or longer if you are not using chemicals. First, soak the bales and keep them wet for three days. On the fourth day sprinkle the bales lightly with about five ounces of ammonium nitrate. Continue soaking, and on the seventh day add another two and a half ounces of ammonium nitrate. Continue soaking, and on the tenth day add one cup of 13-13-13 or 10-10-10 fertilizer and water in.
To cure without chemicals, you may to keep the bales soaking for around three or four weeks to allow them to start breaking down. When you start to soak them, they will become noticeably warm or even hot. Do not plant until they have cooled down.
3. Plant
Most gardeners will want to use some soil for planting on the bales. A 2 or 3 inch layer of compost or potting soil on top of the bales should be sufficient, or you can cut quart-sized holes in the bales themselves with a keyhole saw and fill those with a mix of cool compost and soil. Many bale gardeners, though, prefer to use very little soil, and plant directly into the bales. To do so, simply split a crack to plant in with a prying instrument of some sort. Keep in mind, though, that without compost on the bales, you will need to use more artificial fertilizers.
Each bale should hold about two plants for most vegetables, such as tomatoes, squash, and cucumbers. More will usually fit well with smaller plants like peppers, greens, or herbs. I don't recommend bale growing with root crops, as the roots will be compressed by the straw and will be difficult to harvest. Very tall crops, such as corn or pole beans, will tip the bale over without some sort of support system. Smaller plants are easier to transplant into bales, so bale growers often transplant somewhat younger than soil gardeners.
4. Grow and Enjoy
Depending on what you're growing and how much fertilizer and compost you use on the bales, you may need to fertilize lightly throughout the growing season. Small amounts of artificial fertilizer should work, though I recommend a compost tea. Keep in mind that, unlike traditional gardening, your plants will be getting next to no nutrients other than what you add to the straw (though overfertilizing is often more dangerous for your plants than underfertilizing is). It is also very important to keep the bales moist throughout the growing season. The bales should retain water surprisingly well, and many gardeners report that they actually use significantly less water with straw bale gardening than they did with traditional methods, but you will certainly need to keep an eye on your plants to make sure that they don't dry out between waterings. One great thing about hay bale gardens is that you will probably not be able to overwater them, as they will allow the excess to drain right out.
You should be able to reuse your wheat straw bales for one year. After that you can compost them, or just break them up where they sit and put new bales over them. This will enrich the soil below and encourage worms to come in and improve it.
Got experience with this method of growing? Got questions? See a way to improve this article? I'd love to hear from you! Please, comment below.
Bonsai Gardening Secrets. Discover Over 95 Pages Of Insider Secrets To Creating Stunning Bonsai Trees. Click Here!
Worlds Best Compost. Make The Worlds Ultimate Natural Fertilizer, Colloidal Humus, Without Bins, Turning Or Odor. Click Here!
The Complete Grape Growing System. A Complete System With E-book And Audio Book To Help You Grow Grapes The Correct Way. Click Here!
How To Start Beekeeping. Want To Start Beekeeping? This New EBook Reveals It All. Start Keeping Bees This Season! Click Here!
Orchid Care Expert - A Practical Guide. The Most Practical Guide To Orchid Care To Be Found On The Internet. Click Here!
Organic Food Gardening Beginners Manual. 87 Page Step-by-step Gardening Manual For Beginners To Learn How To Grow Their Own Healthy, Organic Food - Saving Money And Eating Chemical Free! Great Bonuses With This E-manual. Revised Edition Just Released.
Click Here!
Forceful Orchid Fertilizers: Homemade Recipes. Know How To Feed Your Orchids To Quickly Get Astonishing Results. Click Here!
The Hypertufa How-To Manual. 100 Page EBook On How To Make Garden Art Objects From Hypertufa. Easy To Follow Instructions & Expert Advice. Click Here!
Homemade Hydroponics. Hydroponics Secrets Shows You How To Grow The Plants, Fruits And Vegetables -even In Limited Space--without Using Soil. Pays 75% Commission With Excellent Conversion Rates. Click Here!
Bonsai Gardening Secrets. Discover Over 95 Pages Of Insider Secrets To Creating Stunning Bonsai Trees. Click Here!
Forceful Insecticides Home Made Formula. Discover Secret Informations That Big Multinationals Dont Want You To Know! Click Here!The Complete Grape Growing System. A Complete System With E-book And Audio Book To Help You Grow Grapes The Correct Way. Click Here!
Advantages of Straw Bale Gardening
There are many reasons why gardeners turn to hay bale gardens. Probably the most common is poor or difficult soil. A straw bale requires no tilling or mixing of soils to allow for drainage. In this part of South Carolina the soil is mostly very dense red clay that is exceptionally difficult to work and can cause serious drainage issues. Simply growing vegetables in hay bales eliminates these problems. Because the plants are a couple of feet off of the ground, it also makes gardening much easier for the disabled, older gardeners, or just for those who want to avoid back pain. Hay bales are far, far less prone to weeds, and Bale Gardening devotees report fewer pest problems. This means that straw bale gardening makes organic or low-chemical gardening all the easier. A bale garden can be a great solution for that enemy of the gardener, the parking strip (or "hell strip," as many call it). It is also becoming popular in some cityscapes for rooftop and lot gardening.
How to Garden in Straw Bales:
1. Choose your Bales
Most straw bale gardeners recommend wheat straw, but I've heard of success with oat straw as well as mixed grass or alfalfa bales. Do not use pine straw. When choosing your bales you'll want them bound with synthetic twine, which won't rot and allow your planting bed to collapse (if you cannot find synthetic twine, you'll need to use some sort of stakes as support). Try to find older bales that have already begun rotting when you can, though not those that are so far gone as to have lost some of their structure.
Before you start the curing process, place your bales. They will be constantly wet once you start curing, and will be very heavy and difficult to move. Most bale gardeners prefer to have the bales oriented with the straw vertical for better root penetration, but this is a matter of preference
2. Cure your Bales
The curing process will take about ten days, or longer if you are not using chemicals. First, soak the bales and keep them wet for three days. On the fourth day sprinkle the bales lightly with about five ounces of ammonium nitrate. Continue soaking, and on the seventh day add another two and a half ounces of ammonium nitrate. Continue soaking, and on the tenth day add one cup of 13-13-13 or 10-10-10 fertilizer and water in.
To cure without chemicals, you may to keep the bales soaking for around three or four weeks to allow them to start breaking down. When you start to soak them, they will become noticeably warm or even hot. Do not plant until they have cooled down.
3. Plant
Most gardeners will want to use some soil for planting on the bales. A 2 or 3 inch layer of compost or potting soil on top of the bales should be sufficient, or you can cut quart-sized holes in the bales themselves with a keyhole saw and fill those with a mix of cool compost and soil. Many bale gardeners, though, prefer to use very little soil, and plant directly into the bales. To do so, simply split a crack to plant in with a prying instrument of some sort. Keep in mind, though, that without compost on the bales, you will need to use more artificial fertilizers.
Each bale should hold about two plants for most vegetables, such as tomatoes, squash, and cucumbers. More will usually fit well with smaller plants like peppers, greens, or herbs. I don't recommend bale growing with root crops, as the roots will be compressed by the straw and will be difficult to harvest. Very tall crops, such as corn or pole beans, will tip the bale over without some sort of support system. Smaller plants are easier to transplant into bales, so bale growers often transplant somewhat younger than soil gardeners.
4. Grow and Enjoy
Depending on what you're growing and how much fertilizer and compost you use on the bales, you may need to fertilize lightly throughout the growing season. Small amounts of artificial fertilizer should work, though I recommend a compost tea. Keep in mind that, unlike traditional gardening, your plants will be getting next to no nutrients other than what you add to the straw (though overfertilizing is often more dangerous for your plants than underfertilizing is). It is also very important to keep the bales moist throughout the growing season. The bales should retain water surprisingly well, and many gardeners report that they actually use significantly less water with straw bale gardening than they did with traditional methods, but you will certainly need to keep an eye on your plants to make sure that they don't dry out between waterings. One great thing about hay bale gardens is that you will probably not be able to overwater them, as they will allow the excess to drain right out.
You should be able to reuse your wheat straw bales for one year. After that you can compost them, or just break them up where they sit and put new bales over them. This will enrich the soil below and encourage worms to come in and improve it.
Got experience with this method of growing? Got questions? See a way to improve this article? I'd love to hear from you! Please, comment below.
Bonsai Gardening Secrets. Discover Over 95 Pages Of Insider Secrets To Creating Stunning Bonsai Trees. Click Here!
Worlds Best Compost. Make The Worlds Ultimate Natural Fertilizer, Colloidal Humus, Without Bins, Turning Or Odor. Click Here!
The Complete Grape Growing System. A Complete System With E-book And Audio Book To Help You Grow Grapes The Correct Way. Click Here!
How To Start Beekeeping. Want To Start Beekeeping? This New EBook Reveals It All. Start Keeping Bees This Season! Click Here!
Orchid Care Expert - A Practical Guide. The Most Practical Guide To Orchid Care To Be Found On The Internet. Click Here!
Organic Food Gardening Beginners Manual. 87 Page Step-by-step Gardening Manual For Beginners To Learn How To Grow Their Own Healthy, Organic Food - Saving Money And Eating Chemical Free! Great Bonuses With This E-manual. Revised Edition Just Released.
Click Here!
Forceful Orchid Fertilizers: Homemade Recipes. Know How To Feed Your Orchids To Quickly Get Astonishing Results. Click Here!
The Hypertufa How-To Manual. 100 Page EBook On How To Make Garden Art Objects From Hypertufa. Easy To Follow Instructions & Expert Advice. Click Here!
Homemade Hydroponics. Hydroponics Secrets Shows You How To Grow The Plants, Fruits And Vegetables -even In Limited Space--without Using Soil. Pays 75% Commission With Excellent Conversion Rates. Click Here!
Bonsai Gardening Secrets. Discover Over 95 Pages Of Insider Secrets To Creating Stunning Bonsai Trees. Click Here!
Forceful Insecticides Home Made Formula. Discover Secret Informations That Big Multinationals Dont Want You To Know! Click Here!The Complete Grape Growing System. A Complete System With E-book And Audio Book To Help You Grow Grapes The Correct Way. Click Here!
Sunday, 30 November 2008
Insecticides
An insecticide is a pesticide used against insects in all developmental forms. They include ovicides and larvicides used against the eggs and larvae of insects respectively. Insecticides are used in agriculture, medicine, industry and the household. The use of insecticides is believed to be one of the major factors behind the increase in agricultural productivity in the 20th century. Nearly all insecticides have the potential to significantly alter ecosystems; many are toxic to humans; and others are concentrated in the food chain. It is necessary to balance agricultural needs with environmental and health issues when using insecticides.
Forceful Insecticides Home Made Formula. Discover Secret Informations That Big Multinationals Dont Want You To Know! Click Here!
Classes of agricultural insecticides
The classification of insecticides is done in several different ways:
Systemic insecticides are incorporated by treated plants. Insects ingest the insecticide while feeding on the plants.
Contact insecticides are toxic to insects brought into direct contact. Efficacy is often related to the quality of pesticide application, with small droplets (such as aerosols) often improving performance.
Natural insecticides, such as nicotine and pyrethrum, are made by plants as defences against insects. Nicotine based insecticides have been barred in the U.S. since 2001 to prevent residues from contaminating foods.
Inorganic insecticides are manufactured with metals and include arsenates copper- and fluorine compounds, which are now seldom used, and sulfur, which is commonly used.
Organic insecticides are synthetic chemicals which comprise the largest numbers of pesticides available for use today.
Mode of action – how the pesticide kills or inactivates a pest – is another way of classifying insecticides. Mode of action is important in predicting whether an insecticide will be toxic to unrelated species such as fish, birds and mammals.
Heavy metals, e.g. lead, mercury, arsenic, as well as plant toxins such as nicotine have been used for many years. Various plants have been used as folk insecticides for centuries, including tobacco and pyrethrum. Some farmers are reporting successfully using spray of crudely fermented alcohol as an effective insecticide.
Forceful Insecticides Home Made Formula. Discover Secret Informations That Big Multinationals Dont Want You To Know! Click Here!
Organochlorine compounds
The insectcidal properties of the best known representative of this class of insecticides, DDT, was made by the Swiss Scientist Paul Műller. For this discovery, he was awarded the Nobel Prize for Physiology and Medicine in 1948. DDT was introduced on the market in 1944. With the rise of the modern chemical industry it was possible to make chlorinated hydrocarbons. DDT works by opening the sodium channels in the nerve cells of the insect.
Organophosphates
The next large class developed was the organophosphates, which bind to acetylcholinesterase and other cholinesterases. This results in disruption of nervous impulses, killing the insect or interfering with its ability to carry on normal functions. Organophosphate insecticides and chemical warfare nerve agents (such as sarin, tabun, soman and VX) work in the same way. Organophosphates have an additive toxic effect to wildlife, so multiple exposures to the chemicals amplifies the toxicity.
Carbamate insecticides have similar toxic mechanisms but have a much shorter duration of action and are thus somewhat less toxic.
Pyrethroids
To mimic the insecticidal activity of the natural compound pyrethrum another class of pesticides, pyrethroid pesticides, have been developed. These are nonpersistent and much less acutely toxic than organophosphates and carbamates.
Neonicotinoids
Neonicotinoids are synthetic analogues of the natural insecticide nicotine (with a much lower acute mammalian toxicity and greater field persistence). Broad-spectrum – systemic insecticides with a rapid action (minutes-hours). They are applied as sprays, drenches, seed and soil treatments - often as substitutes for organophosphates and carbamates. Treated insects exhibit leg tremors, rapid wing motion, stylet withdrawal (aphids), disorientated movement, paralysis and death.
Biological insecticides
Recent efforts to reduce broad spectrum toxins added to the environment have brought biological insecticides back into vogue. An example is the development and increase in use of Bacillus thuringiensis, a bacterial disease of Lepidopterans and some other insects. It is used as a larvicide against a wide variety of caterpillars. Because it has little effect on other organisms, it is considered more environmentally friendly than synthetic pesticides. The toxin from B. thuringiensis (Bt toxin) has been incorporated directly into plants through the use of genetic engineering. Other biological insecticides include products based on entomopathogenic fungi (e.g. Metarhizium anisopliae), nematodes (e.g. Steinernema feltiae) and viruses (e.g. Cydia pomonella granulovirus).
Environmental effects
Effects on nontarget species
Some insecticides kill or harm other creatures in addition to those they are intended to kill. For example, birds may be poisoned when they eat food that was recently sprayed with insecticides or when they mistake insecticide granules on the ground for food and eat it.
Sprayed insecticides may drift from the area to which it is applied and into wildlife areas, especially when it is sprayed aerially.
DDT
Main article: DDT
One of the bigger drivers in the development of new insecticides has been the desire to replace toxic and irksome insecticides. DDT was introduced as a safer alternative to the lead and arsenic compounds. It is the case that when used under the correct conditions that almost any chemical substance is 'safe', but when used under the wrong conditions most insecticides can be a threat to health and/or the environment.
Some insecticides have been banned due to the fact that they are persistent toxins which have adverse effects on animals and/or humans. An oft-quoted case is that of DDT, an example of a widely used (and maybe misused) pesticide, which was brought to public attention by Rachel Carson's book, Silent Spring. One of the better known impacts of DDT is to reduce the thickness of the egg shells on predatory birds. The shells sometimes become too thin to be viable, causing reductions in bird populations. This occurs with DDT and a number of related compounds due to the process of bioaccumulation, wherein the chemical, due to its stability and fat solubility, accumulates in organisms' fatty tissues. Also, DDT may biomagnify which causes progressively higher concentrations in the body fat of animals farther up the food chain. The near-worldwide ban on agricultural use of DDT and related chemicals has allowed some of these birds—such as the peregrine falcon--to recover in recent years. A number of the organochlorine pesticides have been banned from most uses worldwide and globally they are controlled via the Stockholm Convention on persistent organic pollutants. These include: aldrin, chlordane, DDT, dieldrin, endrin, heptachlor, mirex and toxaphene.
Pollinator decline
Insecticides can kill bees and may be a cause of pollinator decline, the loss of species that pollinate plants, including through the mechanism of Colony Collapse Disorder, in which worker bees from a beehive or Western honey bee colony abruptly disappear. Loss of pollinators will mean a reduction in crop yields.
Forceful Insecticides Home Made Formula. Discover Secret Informations That Big Multinationals Dont Want You To Know! Click Here!
Application methods for household insecticides
Integrated pest management or IPM in the home begins with restricting the availability to insects of three vital commodities: shelter, water and food. If insects become a problem despite such measures, IPM seeks to control them using the safest possible methods, targeting the approach to the particular pest.
Insect repellent, referred to as "bug spray", comes in a plastic bottle or aerosol can. Applied to clothing, arms, legs, and other extremities, the use of these products will tend to ward off nearby insects. This is not an insecticide.
Insecticide used for killing pests—most often insects, and arachnids—primarily comes in an aerosol can, and is sprayed into the air or a nest as a means of killing the animal. Fly sprays will kill house flies, blowflies, ants, cockroaches and other insects and also spiders. Other preparations are granules or liquids that are formulated with bait that is eaten by insects. For many household pests bait traps are available that contain the pesticide and either pheromone or food baits. Crack and crevice sprays are applied into and around openings in houses such as baseboards and plumbing. Pesticides to control termites are often injected into and around the foundations of homes.
Active ingredients of many household insecticides include permethrin and tetramethrin, which act on the nervous system of insects and arachnids.
Bug sprays should be used in well ventilated areas only, as the chemicals contained in the aerosol and most insecticides can be harmful or deadly to humans and pets. All insecticide products including solids, baits and bait traps should be applied such that they are out of reach of wildlife, pets and children.
Forceful Insecticides Home Made Formula. Discover Secret Informations That Big Multinationals Dont Want You To Know! Click Here!
Individual insecticides
Chlorinated hydrocarbons
See also: Category:Organochloride insecticides
Aldrin
Chlordane
Chlordecone
DDT
Dieldrin
Endosulfan
Endrin
Heptachlor
Hexachlorobenzene
Lindane (gamma-Hexachlorocyclohexane)
Methoxychlor
Mirex
Pentachlorophenol
TDE
Organophosphates
Acephate
Azinphos-methyl
Bensulide
Chlorethoxyfos
Chlorpyrifos
Chlorpyriphos-methyl
Diazinon
Dichlorvos (DDVP)
Dicrotophos
Dimethoate
Disulfoton
Ethoprop
Fenamiphos
Fenitrothion
Fenthion
Fosthiazate
Malathion
Methamidophos
Methidathion
Mevinphos
Naled
Omethoate
Oxydemeton-methyl
Parathion
Parathion-methyl
Phorate
Phosalone
Phosmet
Phostebupirim
Phoxim
Pirimiphos-methyl
Profenofos
Philayosfon
Terbufos
Tetrachlorvinphos
Tribufos
Trichlorfon
Carbamates
Aldicarb
Carbofuran
Carbaryl
Methomyl
2-(1-Methylpropyl)phenyl methylcarbamate
Phenothiazine
Pyrethroids
Allethrin
Bifenthrin
Cypermethrin
Deltamethrin
Lambda-cyhalothrin
Permethrin
Resmethrin
Tetramethrin
Tralomethrin
Transfluthrin
Neonicotinoids
Acetamiprid
Clothianidin
Imidacloprid
Nitenpyram
Nithiazine
Thiacloprid
Thiamethoxam
Plant derived
Caffeine
Derris (rotenone)
Anabasine
Anethole (mosquito larvae)
Annonin
Asimina (Pawpaw tree seeds) for lice
Azadirachtin
Carapa
Cinnamon leaf oil (very effective for killing mosquito larvae)
Cinnamaldehyde (very effective for killing mosquito larvae)
Cinnamyl acetate (kills mosquito larvae)
Deguelin
Derris
Desmodium caudatum (leaves and roots)
Eugenol (mosquito larvae)
Linalool
Myristicin
Neem (Azadirachtin)
Nicotiana rustica (Nicotine)
Peganum harmala, seeds (smoke from), root
Oregano oil kills beetles Rhizoppertha dominica (bug found in stored cereal)
Polyketide
Pyrethrum
Quassia (South American plant genus)
Tetranortriterpenoid
Thymol (controls varroa mites in bee colonies)
Bonsai Gardening Secrets. Discover Over 95 Pages Of Insider Secrets To Creating Stunning Bonsai Trees. Click Here!
Worlds Best Compost. Make The Worlds Ultimate Natural Fertilizer, Colloidal Humus, Without Bins, Turning Or Odor. Click Here!
The Complete Grape Growing System. A Complete System With E-book And Audio Book To Help You Grow Grapes The Correct Way. Click Here!
How To Start Beekeeping. Want To Start Beekeeping? This New EBook Reveals It All. Start Keeping Bees This Season! Click Here!
Orchid Care Expert - A Practical Guide. The Most Practical Guide To Orchid Care To Be Found On The Internet. Click Here!
Organic Food Gardening Beginners Manual. 87 Page Step-by-step Gardening Manual For Beginners To Learn How To Grow Their Own Healthy, Organic Food - Saving Money And Eating Chemical Free! Great Bonuses With This E-manual. Revised Edition Just Released.
Click Here!
Forceful Orchid Fertilizers: Homemade Recipes. Know How To Feed Your Orchids To Quickly Get Astonishing Results. Click Here!
The Hypertufa How-To Manual. 100 Page EBook On How To Make Garden Art Objects From Hypertufa. Easy To Follow Instructions & Expert Advice. Click Here!
Homemade Hydroponics. Hydroponics Secrets Shows You How To Grow The Plants, Fruits And Vegetables -even In Limited Space--without Using Soil. Pays 75% Commission With Excellent Conversion Rates. Click Here!
Bonsai Gardening Secrets. Discover Over 95 Pages Of Insider Secrets To Creating Stunning Bonsai Trees. Click Here!
Forceful Insecticides Home Made Formula. Discover Secret Informations That Big Multinationals Dont Want You To Know! Click Here!
Forceful Insecticides Home Made Formula. Discover Secret Informations That Big Multinationals Dont Want You To Know! Click Here!
Classes of agricultural insecticides
The classification of insecticides is done in several different ways:
Systemic insecticides are incorporated by treated plants. Insects ingest the insecticide while feeding on the plants.
Contact insecticides are toxic to insects brought into direct contact. Efficacy is often related to the quality of pesticide application, with small droplets (such as aerosols) often improving performance.
Natural insecticides, such as nicotine and pyrethrum, are made by plants as defences against insects. Nicotine based insecticides have been barred in the U.S. since 2001 to prevent residues from contaminating foods.
Inorganic insecticides are manufactured with metals and include arsenates copper- and fluorine compounds, which are now seldom used, and sulfur, which is commonly used.
Organic insecticides are synthetic chemicals which comprise the largest numbers of pesticides available for use today.
Mode of action – how the pesticide kills or inactivates a pest – is another way of classifying insecticides. Mode of action is important in predicting whether an insecticide will be toxic to unrelated species such as fish, birds and mammals.
Heavy metals, e.g. lead, mercury, arsenic, as well as plant toxins such as nicotine have been used for many years. Various plants have been used as folk insecticides for centuries, including tobacco and pyrethrum. Some farmers are reporting successfully using spray of crudely fermented alcohol as an effective insecticide.
Forceful Insecticides Home Made Formula. Discover Secret Informations That Big Multinationals Dont Want You To Know! Click Here!
Organochlorine compounds
The insectcidal properties of the best known representative of this class of insecticides, DDT, was made by the Swiss Scientist Paul Műller. For this discovery, he was awarded the Nobel Prize for Physiology and Medicine in 1948. DDT was introduced on the market in 1944. With the rise of the modern chemical industry it was possible to make chlorinated hydrocarbons. DDT works by opening the sodium channels in the nerve cells of the insect.
Organophosphates
The next large class developed was the organophosphates, which bind to acetylcholinesterase and other cholinesterases. This results in disruption of nervous impulses, killing the insect or interfering with its ability to carry on normal functions. Organophosphate insecticides and chemical warfare nerve agents (such as sarin, tabun, soman and VX) work in the same way. Organophosphates have an additive toxic effect to wildlife, so multiple exposures to the chemicals amplifies the toxicity.
Carbamate insecticides have similar toxic mechanisms but have a much shorter duration of action and are thus somewhat less toxic.
Pyrethroids
To mimic the insecticidal activity of the natural compound pyrethrum another class of pesticides, pyrethroid pesticides, have been developed. These are nonpersistent and much less acutely toxic than organophosphates and carbamates.
Neonicotinoids
Neonicotinoids are synthetic analogues of the natural insecticide nicotine (with a much lower acute mammalian toxicity and greater field persistence). Broad-spectrum – systemic insecticides with a rapid action (minutes-hours). They are applied as sprays, drenches, seed and soil treatments - often as substitutes for organophosphates and carbamates. Treated insects exhibit leg tremors, rapid wing motion, stylet withdrawal (aphids), disorientated movement, paralysis and death.
Biological insecticides
Recent efforts to reduce broad spectrum toxins added to the environment have brought biological insecticides back into vogue. An example is the development and increase in use of Bacillus thuringiensis, a bacterial disease of Lepidopterans and some other insects. It is used as a larvicide against a wide variety of caterpillars. Because it has little effect on other organisms, it is considered more environmentally friendly than synthetic pesticides. The toxin from B. thuringiensis (Bt toxin) has been incorporated directly into plants through the use of genetic engineering. Other biological insecticides include products based on entomopathogenic fungi (e.g. Metarhizium anisopliae), nematodes (e.g. Steinernema feltiae) and viruses (e.g. Cydia pomonella granulovirus).
Environmental effects
Effects on nontarget species
Some insecticides kill or harm other creatures in addition to those they are intended to kill. For example, birds may be poisoned when they eat food that was recently sprayed with insecticides or when they mistake insecticide granules on the ground for food and eat it.
Sprayed insecticides may drift from the area to which it is applied and into wildlife areas, especially when it is sprayed aerially.
DDT
Main article: DDT
One of the bigger drivers in the development of new insecticides has been the desire to replace toxic and irksome insecticides. DDT was introduced as a safer alternative to the lead and arsenic compounds. It is the case that when used under the correct conditions that almost any chemical substance is 'safe', but when used under the wrong conditions most insecticides can be a threat to health and/or the environment.
Some insecticides have been banned due to the fact that they are persistent toxins which have adverse effects on animals and/or humans. An oft-quoted case is that of DDT, an example of a widely used (and maybe misused) pesticide, which was brought to public attention by Rachel Carson's book, Silent Spring. One of the better known impacts of DDT is to reduce the thickness of the egg shells on predatory birds. The shells sometimes become too thin to be viable, causing reductions in bird populations. This occurs with DDT and a number of related compounds due to the process of bioaccumulation, wherein the chemical, due to its stability and fat solubility, accumulates in organisms' fatty tissues. Also, DDT may biomagnify which causes progressively higher concentrations in the body fat of animals farther up the food chain. The near-worldwide ban on agricultural use of DDT and related chemicals has allowed some of these birds—such as the peregrine falcon--to recover in recent years. A number of the organochlorine pesticides have been banned from most uses worldwide and globally they are controlled via the Stockholm Convention on persistent organic pollutants. These include: aldrin, chlordane, DDT, dieldrin, endrin, heptachlor, mirex and toxaphene.
Pollinator decline
Insecticides can kill bees and may be a cause of pollinator decline, the loss of species that pollinate plants, including through the mechanism of Colony Collapse Disorder, in which worker bees from a beehive or Western honey bee colony abruptly disappear. Loss of pollinators will mean a reduction in crop yields.
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Application methods for household insecticides
Integrated pest management or IPM in the home begins with restricting the availability to insects of three vital commodities: shelter, water and food. If insects become a problem despite such measures, IPM seeks to control them using the safest possible methods, targeting the approach to the particular pest.
Insect repellent, referred to as "bug spray", comes in a plastic bottle or aerosol can. Applied to clothing, arms, legs, and other extremities, the use of these products will tend to ward off nearby insects. This is not an insecticide.
Insecticide used for killing pests—most often insects, and arachnids—primarily comes in an aerosol can, and is sprayed into the air or a nest as a means of killing the animal. Fly sprays will kill house flies, blowflies, ants, cockroaches and other insects and also spiders. Other preparations are granules or liquids that are formulated with bait that is eaten by insects. For many household pests bait traps are available that contain the pesticide and either pheromone or food baits. Crack and crevice sprays are applied into and around openings in houses such as baseboards and plumbing. Pesticides to control termites are often injected into and around the foundations of homes.
Active ingredients of many household insecticides include permethrin and tetramethrin, which act on the nervous system of insects and arachnids.
Bug sprays should be used in well ventilated areas only, as the chemicals contained in the aerosol and most insecticides can be harmful or deadly to humans and pets. All insecticide products including solids, baits and bait traps should be applied such that they are out of reach of wildlife, pets and children.
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Individual insecticides
Chlorinated hydrocarbons
See also: Category:Organochloride insecticides
Aldrin
Chlordane
Chlordecone
DDT
Dieldrin
Endosulfan
Endrin
Heptachlor
Hexachlorobenzene
Lindane (gamma-Hexachlorocyclohexane)
Methoxychlor
Mirex
Pentachlorophenol
TDE
Organophosphates
Acephate
Azinphos-methyl
Bensulide
Chlorethoxyfos
Chlorpyrifos
Chlorpyriphos-methyl
Diazinon
Dichlorvos (DDVP)
Dicrotophos
Dimethoate
Disulfoton
Ethoprop
Fenamiphos
Fenitrothion
Fenthion
Fosthiazate
Malathion
Methamidophos
Methidathion
Mevinphos
Naled
Omethoate
Oxydemeton-methyl
Parathion
Parathion-methyl
Phorate
Phosalone
Phosmet
Phostebupirim
Phoxim
Pirimiphos-methyl
Profenofos
Philayosfon
Terbufos
Tetrachlorvinphos
Tribufos
Trichlorfon
Carbamates
Aldicarb
Carbofuran
Carbaryl
Methomyl
2-(1-Methylpropyl)phenyl methylcarbamate
Phenothiazine
Pyrethroids
Allethrin
Bifenthrin
Cypermethrin
Deltamethrin
Lambda-cyhalothrin
Permethrin
Resmethrin
Tetramethrin
Tralomethrin
Transfluthrin
Neonicotinoids
Acetamiprid
Clothianidin
Imidacloprid
Nitenpyram
Nithiazine
Thiacloprid
Thiamethoxam
Plant derived
Caffeine
Derris (rotenone)
Anabasine
Anethole (mosquito larvae)
Annonin
Asimina (Pawpaw tree seeds) for lice
Azadirachtin
Carapa
Cinnamon leaf oil (very effective for killing mosquito larvae)
Cinnamaldehyde (very effective for killing mosquito larvae)
Cinnamyl acetate (kills mosquito larvae)
Deguelin
Derris
Desmodium caudatum (leaves and roots)
Eugenol (mosquito larvae)
Linalool
Myristicin
Neem (Azadirachtin)
Nicotiana rustica (Nicotine)
Peganum harmala, seeds (smoke from), root
Oregano oil kills beetles Rhizoppertha dominica (bug found in stored cereal)
Polyketide
Pyrethrum
Quassia (South American plant genus)
Tetranortriterpenoid
Thymol (controls varroa mites in bee colonies)
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